All Culinary Artist Should Train Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, tucked high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.

Brian Torres
Brian Torres

Maya Chen is a digital strategist with over 10 years of experience in SEO and web analytics, helping clients achieve measurable online success.